Where are we going wrong?
Wild horses do not wear shoes, live in stables/caves, wear blankets or eat grain. But our horses do. Where are we going wrong? What factors are lacking in the lives of our domestic equines that cause us to supplement their lifestyles with these things? How can we make their lives a little more similar to that of their wild counterparts? Below I have listed a number of factors and changes that the domestic horse will appreciate.
- An unlimited amount of grazing/hay fed at ground level as well as access to appropriate herbs
- Comfortable, regularly trimmed, unshod hooves
- Unlimited movement on firm ground (Ideally 15km+ daily)
- Access to water for soaking hooves and bathing
- Companionship
- Access to shelter but not being restricted to it by means of blankets/stables.
- A stress free environment
I firmly believe that if even half of these factors can be met, we will possess much happier and healthier horses. Ultimately, we should continually strive to achieve all of the above mentioned factors.
Ask yourself: “Am I a suitable candidate for my horse to go barefoot?”
The question is no longer: “Can my horse go barefoot.” It has been proven over and over that given the correct circumstances, any horse can go barefoot. The only limitation is the resources and opinions of the owner. Even better if our domestic horses are raised in a suitable environment from day one - we are the ones who have control over how they develop and the good news is that a lot of bad can be reversed, if not completely cured by making some simple changes to the lifestyles of our horses.
The hooves of the wild horse
Front hoof of a wild horse (cadaver)
Much can be learned from examining the hooves of the wild horse. The hoof length of the wild horse is about 3 inches as the coffin bone is suspended high inside of the hoof capsule. The walls are beveled and the white line is tight. The bars are straight and end in the correct position, about half way down either side of the frog. The wild horse walks on the water line, white line and part of the sole as opposed to the domestic horse which walks on the hoof wall only if trimmed using traditional methods. The front hooves are gently concave and tend to be "round" in shape while the hind hooves have deeper concavity and should be more "oval" in shape. The frog is weight-bearing and the heels are low to allow for a natural heel-first landing. Lastly, the quarters are arched to allow the hoof to flex as it contacts the ground.
Traditional trim vs. Performance barefoot trim
Traditional trim
- Hooves are generally trimmed every 6 weeks or sometimes more
- Heels are left long enough to prevent frog contact
- Hooves tend to land toe first, with the exception of a horse with above average movement
- Toe callous is trimmed which can cause much discomfort
- The bottom of the hoof is rasped flat
- Often the bars are not trimmed appropriately which can also become uncomfortable for the horse
- The frog is trimmed so that it doesn’t contact with the ground which causes discomfort at the back of the hoof and encourages contraction of the frog over time
Performance barefoot trim
- Hooves are trimmed every 3-4 weeks in order to stay on top of problems and prevent overgrowth which can lead to white line separation, cracks, contraction of the frog etc.
- Heels are kept short and trimmed evenly
- The goal is for the hoof to land heel first, this may take some time to occur as the horse adjusts from the traditional trim
- Toe callous is left untouched and allowed to wear naturally
- The bars are trimmed back to their correct position
- The frog is left to contact the ground and assume its job of assisting with blood circulation throughout the body as well as providing grip to the hoof
Parts of the hoof and how the hoof functions
Outer hoof wall: Protects the sensitive internal hoof tissues and used to dissipate the energy of concussion. The outer wall plays an important role in self-trimming by chipping and breaking off.
Water line: Serves mainly to support the hoof.
White line/laminae: The white line is the innermost layer of the wall. It appears translucent when healthy and looks a little like a zipper when stretched and unhealthy.
Seat-of-corn: Useful landmark to indicate how low the heels can be trimmed.
Frog: Acts as a shock absorber and provides grip to the hoof, assists with blood circulation.
Heel bulbs: Expansion and contraction of the heel bulbs draws blood into the lower limb and hoof feeding tissues to promote healthy maintenance and new growth.
Bars: Offer support to the back of the hoof and also assists with traction.
Quarters: Allow the hoof to flex and expand as it is loaded (if correctly trimmed/worn).
The “no touchy zone” or “toe callous”: highlighted in red, this area is not to be trimmed as the hoof will lose toe height and concavity and the horse can become very foot sore.
For more on the healthy domestic hoof please click here.
Water line: Serves mainly to support the hoof.
White line/laminae: The white line is the innermost layer of the wall. It appears translucent when healthy and looks a little like a zipper when stretched and unhealthy.
Seat-of-corn: Useful landmark to indicate how low the heels can be trimmed.
Frog: Acts as a shock absorber and provides grip to the hoof, assists with blood circulation.
Heel bulbs: Expansion and contraction of the heel bulbs draws blood into the lower limb and hoof feeding tissues to promote healthy maintenance and new growth.
Bars: Offer support to the back of the hoof and also assists with traction.
Quarters: Allow the hoof to flex and expand as it is loaded (if correctly trimmed/worn).
The “no touchy zone” or “toe callous”: highlighted in red, this area is not to be trimmed as the hoof will lose toe height and concavity and the horse can become very foot sore.
For more on the healthy domestic hoof please click here.
What do shoes do?
Horses are normally shod with the belief that the shoe will protect the horse’s hoof from excessive wear and damage which could cause lameness. However, this was not the shoe’s original purpose. The original horse shoe had protruding nails and calks used to give the horse better grip on soft ground. The steel part of the shoe, nailed on to the hoof, was merely used to provide a platform for the nails and calks. It is common belief that the shoe (with or without studs/calks) “offers better grip” or “helps the horse track up behind.”
But is that what shoes really do?
The truth is…
- Horses can still slip badly with shoes on (as they can with an incorrect trim or on very bad footing). Add studs and you’ll have grip – grip which is completely unnatural to the horse and which will put excessive strain on the horse's entire body but particularly the lower limbs which can cause strain injuries, particularly if the horse's body is not sufficiently conditioned to wearing shoes with studs.
- A hoof shod with a normal metal shoe lacks 60-80% of it natural shock absorption as the shoe prevents the hoof from expanding naturally as it is placed on the ground. This extra shock has to go somewhere – unfortunately right into the joints and spine.
- Shoes prevent the hoof from developing to its natural size and encourages a toe-first landing.
- The shoe weakens all of the hoof structures.
- The shoe causes peripheral loading due to a lack of frog pressure.
Some interesting videos on peripheral loading and the effects of the shoe:
Peripheral loading video 1
Peripheral loading video 2
But is that what shoes really do?
The truth is…
- Horses can still slip badly with shoes on (as they can with an incorrect trim or on very bad footing). Add studs and you’ll have grip – grip which is completely unnatural to the horse and which will put excessive strain on the horse's entire body but particularly the lower limbs which can cause strain injuries, particularly if the horse's body is not sufficiently conditioned to wearing shoes with studs.
- A hoof shod with a normal metal shoe lacks 60-80% of it natural shock absorption as the shoe prevents the hoof from expanding naturally as it is placed on the ground. This extra shock has to go somewhere – unfortunately right into the joints and spine.
- Shoes prevent the hoof from developing to its natural size and encourages a toe-first landing.
- The shoe weakens all of the hoof structures.
- The shoe causes peripheral loading due to a lack of frog pressure.
Some interesting videos on peripheral loading and the effects of the shoe:
Peripheral loading video 1
Peripheral loading video 2
Advantages and importance of going barefoot
- Better shock absorption throughout the limb
- Less concussion to the joints
- Horse will be less likely to over-reach and clip its heels
- Better traction
- Improved thermal regulation
- Stumbling, tripping and slipping is greatly reduced
- Better posture
- Better movement
- Increased range of motion
- Horse is less spooky as he can feel the ground
- Hoof is on the ground for less time (breakover is quickened)
- Stronger hoof horn quality
- Horse can never “lose a hoof”
- Injuries sustained from barefoot hooves are less severe than those sustained by a shod hoof
- Better circulation throughout the limbs and body
- Less concussion to the joints
- Horse will be less likely to over-reach and clip its heels
- Better traction
- Improved thermal regulation
- Stumbling, tripping and slipping is greatly reduced
- Better posture
- Better movement
- Increased range of motion
- Horse is less spooky as he can feel the ground
- Hoof is on the ground for less time (breakover is quickened)
- Stronger hoof horn quality
- Horse can never “lose a hoof”
- Injuries sustained from barefoot hooves are less severe than those sustained by a shod hoof
- Better circulation throughout the limbs and body
Diet and lifestyle for optimum hoof quality
As previously mentioned, the horse should ideally live outside with access to shelter and as much movement as possible. Jaime Jackson’s Paddock Paradise has some great ideas on creating a horse and hoof friendly environment no matter the size of your property.
Natural grazing/hay low in sugars should be available at all times. Ideally, hay and grazing should be tested, particularly if suspected to be a problem where hoof sensitivity and other issues are present. Teff is a fantastic form of roughage. Oat hay should be avoided and Lucerne is generally acceptable for most horses in small amounts.
Hard food or grain which is high in sugars should be reduced or ideally, completely eliminated from the diet. Extra hay and/or a fat supplements to make up for the loss of calories may be required. A vitamin and mineral and/or amino acid supplement may be necessary as well.
For extra weight gain and/or as a base for supplements:
-Oats (in limited amounts and only for hard-working horses)
- Oil: Flaxseed oil
- Black oil sunflower seeds (not the ones with the white stripes)
Supplements:
- Herbs: Kelp, rosehips, garlic, fenugreek seed cover most vitamin and mineral requirements
- Specifically formulated natural and plant-based vitamin and mineral supplement/free choice minerals
- Access to salt
- Magnesium oxide to lower blood sugar levels and decrease hoof sensitivity
Common hoof issues which can be helped or eliminated through correct feeding:
Laminitis: Eliminate as many sugars from the diet by testing hay and soaking it if necessary.
White line separation: Usually caused by excess sugars/lack of copper and zinc in the diet. Supplement as necessary.
Thrush: Also aggravated by an excess of sugars in the diet and copper zinc imbalance/deficiency.
Abscesses: Detox by feeding appropriate herbs; and change to a natural diet, trim and lifestyle. Decrease chemical use.
Natural grazing/hay low in sugars should be available at all times. Ideally, hay and grazing should be tested, particularly if suspected to be a problem where hoof sensitivity and other issues are present. Teff is a fantastic form of roughage. Oat hay should be avoided and Lucerne is generally acceptable for most horses in small amounts.
Hard food or grain which is high in sugars should be reduced or ideally, completely eliminated from the diet. Extra hay and/or a fat supplements to make up for the loss of calories may be required. A vitamin and mineral and/or amino acid supplement may be necessary as well.
For extra weight gain and/or as a base for supplements:
-Oats (in limited amounts and only for hard-working horses)
- Oil: Flaxseed oil
- Black oil sunflower seeds (not the ones with the white stripes)
Supplements:
- Herbs: Kelp, rosehips, garlic, fenugreek seed cover most vitamin and mineral requirements
- Specifically formulated natural and plant-based vitamin and mineral supplement/free choice minerals
- Access to salt
- Magnesium oxide to lower blood sugar levels and decrease hoof sensitivity
Common hoof issues which can be helped or eliminated through correct feeding:
Laminitis: Eliminate as many sugars from the diet by testing hay and soaking it if necessary.
White line separation: Usually caused by excess sugars/lack of copper and zinc in the diet. Supplement as necessary.
Thrush: Also aggravated by an excess of sugars in the diet and copper zinc imbalance/deficiency.
Abscesses: Detox by feeding appropriate herbs; and change to a natural diet, trim and lifestyle. Decrease chemical use.
